A Windy Day in Two Medicine

Autumn is one of the best times to hike, but as the days shorten and the school season intensifies, it seems there is less time to be on the trail. That’s why I was determined to head to Glacier this past weekend for a longer hike before the snow flies. 

Rising Wolf overlooks Two Medicine

Knowing what to expect in the fall

Weather is a key consideration at this time of the year, and while it didn’t appear that rain or snow would be an issue, with forecasted gusts closing in on 40 mph, we knew wind was a factor. Our initial plan was to hike to Scenic Point, a roughly 8 mile round trip with 2300 ft in elevation gain, offering spectacular views of Rising Wolf and into the Two Medicine Valley since the parking lot is usually filled very early in the day in July and August.

Exploring the side roads

During the summer, the goal is to leave Great Falls as early as possible in order to secure a parking spot, regardless of where we want to hike. In the fall, it’s not quite as pressing so we pulled out of town around 6:30, and made a stop near Heart Butte to pick up my friend, Rachael. I’ve driven past the Heart Butte sign off of Hwy 89 thousands of times, but never ventured that direction, partly because it was out of the way on my focused mission heading to the park, but partly because Heart Butte is the type of town where a high school sporting event is called because there is a grizzly eating a horse carcass at the end of the field. Heart Butte is on its own level.

We picked up Rachael who took us up the road that ends up just outside of Browning pointing out families and events along the way. It’s about 10 miles longer, but it’s like being introduced to the neighborhood, plus I’m a big fan of local history and knowing the back roads.  Expanding the journey is part of the adventure.

Starting Scenic Point

After stopping to watch a little black bear cross the road on our drive into Two Medicine, we arrived at Scenic Point shortly after 9. I was relieved that there was only 1 other car in the parking lot. We made our way up the trail, yet as we gained elevation, the wind was more brutal, sometimes knocking us off balance. We walked past my favorite tree, a limber or whitebark pine that died years ago, mostly likely from blister rust. It is huge, over a foot in diameter, for this particular area, and I can only imagine what it’s witnessed over the years (probably centuries). With gnarled, whitened branches, to me it is the symbol of wisdom and experience.  

After being blown and battered for over a mile along the route, we decided to turn around and try Rockwell Falls, which primarily winds its way through the trees. By the time we returned to the Scenic Point parking area, there were many more vehicles, but what really surprised me is the main parking area at Two Medicine was full just before noon. We had to park in the overflow parking area. The camp store is already boarded up and winterized. Plus, the dock from the boat is out of the water,  and the Sinopah is already tucked away in its boat house. Even though there were still a lot of people, these are signs that the season is truly winding down. 

Opting for Rockwell Falls

The walk to Rockwell Falls was pleasant and easy. Squirrels chattered at us on occasion, and I was amazed at the numbers of fall mushrooms. I could identify the boletes, but there were many more I need to research. The meadows once filled with flowers were warm golds and browns, although a few hardy asters still offered nectar to the remaining bees and insects. 

The mushrooms were prolific

The large suspension bridge on the way to the falls is always a highlight with a goal of not making it shake like crazy while crossing it.

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The falls were particularly lovely flowing with more water than expected at the end of the season, and many flowers, such as mallows and arnica, still bloomed along its edges. We grabbed a bite, took a few pictures, then had to continue back in order to be on the road early enough to drive in the daylight. (I’m not a fan of driving after dark around here, particularly since the deer are more active lately.) 

On the hike back, there was a cow moose feeding in one of the far beaver ponds. It took some maneuvering in one area to see over the willows, but we finally found a good opening to watch her and take photos.

We made it back to the car by 4-ish so made it home long before the witching hour happy to enjoy a pleasant outing in the park once again. While I like to go to an area with a plan, this day demonstrates that having the flexibility to switch gears often works out better. There’s no doubt Scenic Point is beautiful, but by visiting Rockwell Falls instead, we noticed the fall fungi, was able to have more conversations (because the wind would’ve drowned it out otherwise), and see the moose on the way back. That’s what I call a good day. 

Side view of Sinopah

Many Glacier in May

Many Glacier is one of my favorite places in Glacier National Park, and in my opinion, the springtime is the best time to be there. Besides the dramatic landscape, there are often moose, bighorn sheep, and bears to be found making it one of the best areas to view wildlife, especially before everyone and their mother arrives. So when a friend said her dad was coming out for a visit, we decided we needed to make an early trip over there to hike with the kids.

Beautiful stream on the hike to Red Rock Falls
Beautiful stream on the hike to Red Rock Falls

 

I envisioned the typical awe-inspiring scenery and being able to spot the consistent moose in Fishercap or Red Rock Lakes. Every time I’ve been there over the past couple of years, we’ve seen them. They seemed almost as standard as the deer. At first, it looked like that plan would materialize. Initial weather forecasts called for partly cloudy conditions, a slim chance of rain,  and 70 degrees. As the day drew closer, the predicated temperature dropped and the chance of rain increased. By the time Friday morning came around, we were praying the hard rain was going to hold off like the meteorologist said.

With a 3 hour drive one way, it’s not as if you want to be over there and decide to turn around, but we ventured forward despite the ominous skies. On the way over, we experienced drizzle, fog, rain, and even large flakes of snow practically blowing horizontally. I was seriously dismayed that our day with 7 children (5 ages 9 and under) would be a complete wash out.

The weather was less than beautiful.
The weather was less than beautiful.

It was still drizzly and a brisk 48-ish degrees when we arrived at the ranger station, since those are the only restroom facilities open at this time of the year. (They are brand new and very nice, by the way.) While taking turns for a pre-hike potty break, we told the rangers who were waiting in a nearby vehicle our plans to hike to Red Rock Falls. One shared that the trail was just opened that day. It had been closed due to grizzly activity for an unspecified amount of time. Yet, as she said, with so many kids making noise and multiple cans of bear spray, we should be fine. She was right. We thought we heard a huff in the bushes near Fishercap Lake, but never saw a bear, nor even a moose.

There wasn't much for wildlife but the green was gorgeous.
There wasn’t much for wildlife but the green was gorgeous.

The 4 mile (round trip) hike was great despite the weather. Everyone seemed warm and happy. The younger kids were running back and forth between adults looking at plants, flowers, and cool rocks. There were a million questions, comments, and never a quiet moment, but to have the kids out, even when it was drizzly and chilly, was worth the adventure.  We passed just a few people on the trail, unlike the hundreds during the summer, and the green of the early aspens is beyond gorgeous. Even though we didn’t have the huckleberries to snack on while we walk like we did when we hiked this trail in July a couple of years ago, it’s even more special at this time of the season.

Running down the trail
Running down the trail

When we reached the falls, we ventured down a path to gain a better view and to enjoy lunch in a spectacular area. A water ousel sat on the rocks near the extraordinarily powerful waterfall, and it was rejuvenating to stop and chat for a while.

Water ousel perched on a rock near the falls.
Water ousel perched on a rock near the falls.

After eating, we continued up the trail just a short ways to “the big rock” where the kids climbed up (giving me a heart attack since I knew how slick the stone was from the rain) before we decided to head back to the vehicles.

Climbing the big rock
Climbing the big rock

By the time we were nearly at the end of the trail, the pace was a bit slower for the younger kids who required a bit of cajoling to keep them moving forward without complaint. (Thankfully we had the most awesome grandfather of a couple of the boys there who was the best person to keep them laughing and hiking.) And when we arrived back at the ranger station to visit the restroom before heading home, the ranger showed us where there were tiny bats tucked behind the siding on one of the buildings. Even though we didn’t see any of the megafauna I had hoped to spot, bat sightings are definitely worth the stop.

A seemingly unlikely place for bats.
A seemingly unlikely place for bats.

This little jaunt just goes to show you that you don’t have to have perfect weather to have a good time. And while the weather might be a bit more erratic in the springtime, it’s still the best time to be in the park.